LFW: Mary Katrantzou SS14
Taking her inspiration from footwear, Katrantzou’s collection featured enlarged prints of footwear detailing, expertly pieced together to create silhouette and shape. From brogue laces on strappy dresses to buckles on shirts, this collection took something we see each and everyday and made it extraordinary.
Through using pleating to add another dimension of texture to the already layered pieces, each intricate detail of the print is shown in a different light, creating intrigue and desire.
Moving on from the rich oxbloods, blacks and tan of the brogue, Katrantzou’s collection moved into the colorful, featuring prints from patterned floral trainers printed on the body of a bomber jacket contrasting with a solid purple patterned sleeve. Shirts were allowed some freedom from the shoe theme, as patterns featured on the inspirational footwear was enlarged over the shirts, which added a more everyday feeling when teemed with shoe printed trousers in complimenting colours and pattern.
When enlarged, the footwear inspiration seems to disappear as the patterns appear more mathematical and geometric rather than that of an everyday necessity, which adds to the beauty of this collection. It is a celebration of everything that makes fashion, from the shoes on our feet to the garments we wear. This is one of the most exciting, inspirational and fun collections of London so far.
The second half of Katrantzou’s show was a world away from footwear detailing. Featuring repeat prints of clusters of tiny flowers in delicate colours, the floral side of the show was the epitome of femininity with edge. With ruffles around the bust, full but short skirts and wide pleating, this collection is the perfect complement to the edgy designs preceding them.
Contributor: Sarah Stothard